Seoul, South Korea

In late November I jumped across the world and spent four days in Seoul, South Korea for the very first time. I went without any expectations, and to my excitement I was bombarded with so much food.  You can sit and have a solid meal for under $10, grab a snack like fishcakes at a street stall for under $1, or chill at a themed cafe till the late hours. Throughout my trip I was blown away by how extensive, affordable and huge the food scene was in this city. Below are a few key dishes I checked off my list.

When I first arrived, there was nothing better to have in Seoul’s 30F weather than kimchi jigae. It is a kimchi-based spicy stew that continues to cook as you eat. Jjigae means stew and there are many different variations depending on the ingredients used. This pot here contained tofu, vegetables, and pork – I like to add ramen at the end. Kimchi stew can be slightly sour depending on how long the kimchi has been fermented. Deliciously spicy and perfect for the winter.  

Sulongtang is a beef-based noodle soup often served with kimchi and rice. The broth is milky and light.There are benefits from the soup that make it a great hangover cure. I was excited to stumble upon it in the morning for breakfast. The broth takes a long time to cook and therefore a lot of restaurants that serve sulongtang will be open 24/7. 

It’s cheap and is everywhere in Seoul. These small stands are spotted across busy neighborhoods such as Dongdaemun and Myeongdong (equivalent to Herald Square or Soho). They pitch these small tents that allow you to step away from the cold momentarily and eat standing. You will usually find dukbokki – spicy rice cakes, fried foods, and fish cakes. There are also stands that sell sweets such as bungeoppang – red bean filled cakes or hotteok – pancake filled with sweet cinnamon-y paste.

is Seoul’s oldest, remaining traditional market (top image). This market includes over 5,000 (insane!)shops to buy products such as comforters, kimchi by the pound, groceries, and places to grab a quick bite. On the weekends there are never-ending crowds and it becomes one big fire hazard. Nevertheless…

I was lucky to meet up with a local, who navigated to the food, and we quickly grabbed an empty bench to munch on soondae (blood sausage) and kimbap. These benches are small around each of these food stalls and people sit tight.

Then twisting and turning into the smaller streets, she led us to a street selling mostly yukhwe – beef sashimi mixed with sliced Korean pears and fresh egg. This turned out to be one of my favorite dishes here, the pears are a really great accompaniment. Also, top on my (bucket) list, I was able to try really fresh octopus– yikes! Not for the weak of heart; they’re a challenge to even get off the plate. And you must chew thoroughly before swallowing.

Despite the cold weather, one dish I’d always crave from time to time would be Korean cold noodles called naengmyun.  It is a soup noodle dish with buckwheat noodles in a beef broth. The bowl also includes sliced garnishes include sweet pears, cucumbers, beef, and mustard on the side. Korean restaurants in NYC usually only serve them in the summer, except for this one. 

There weren’t enough days for me to eat everything. Missed out on jjajangmyun and some drinking. I can’t read Korean at all but throughout the trip I was able to manage on my own with a few phrases and pointing at things. 

These apps were very helpful in navigating and discovering places:

• Malang Subway – Their train system is very easy to grasp (iOS & Android)
• Korea Tour – Google Maps does not fully cover Seoul, this will help a lot.
• Visit Korea – For finding attractions (iOS & Android)

Tibits I learned during my time here:

• Not a lot is open in the morning and the city is alive late into the night. Coffee shops, ironically, do not open until 11am or noon. If you’re an early bird, take note of 24 hour restaurants and/or look for bakeries. Many restaurants don’t close until midnight or later.
• Like many other Asian cities, their convenience stores are on every block & provide everything you may need at a fair price. They have 7/11, GS25, Minimart.
• You will take off your shoes more often than you think.